Thursday, July 25, 2013

Pattern Testing (and talking to) the Sewaholic Saltspring

 
I have clear ideas on the styles that I like to sew, and that I think suit me, but sometimes an opportunity comes along that pushes me out of my comfort zone. Having previously sewn the Lonsdale Dress and the Minoru Jacket from Sewaholic Patterns, I was delighted to get to test Tasia's new pattern the Saltspring Dress.
It is a deceptively simple style which hides the cleverness of the design. The shorter inner bodice layer and the longer outer bodice layer are joined inside, to make an elastic casing which then gives the dress it's blousiness.
What makes the dress work, and gives it shape, is how it is designed. For example, the skirt pieces are shaped, rather than being rectangles, so that there is not too much bulk when it's gathered with elastic at the waist. Tasia has taken a relaxed shape and designed a very flattering dress. She has given a detailed description of the dress on her website, with lots of great pictures.

I tend to wear more fitted styles, so when I first saw the line drawing of the Saltspring Dress, I wasn't sure how I felt about the blousy style. Having wide shoulders and hips, I thought the dress would give me a more rectangular rather than curvy shape. This was the major reason I chose chiffon and satin so that the dress would be very, very 'drapey'. However all niggly doubts disappeared when I tried the dress on for the first fitting. I had an 'Oh wow!' moment, impressed at how flattering it was looking and even surprised that liked how it was going to look on me. And, as a another plus, I've wanted to sew a red chiffon dress forever.

 

The chiffon and satin are sewn with French seams at the bodice and skirt side seams, so I omitted the pockets in the skirt side seams for this version. I had to add a lining to the skirt as the chiffon is sheer. This involved cutting skirt lining pieces using the back and front skirt pattern pieces and then treating the main skirt and skirt lining as one at the top and at the zip, following the pattern instructions.

It's definitely a dress to make an impression! especially the maxi length. I asked my husband for help with hemming the chiffon and the satin after allowing the dress to hang for a few days. As this absolutely wouldn't be my usual daily attire, he was almost speechless when he saw it on me - the exact words were "you....are like....a......Greek" I'm really hoping he was going to say 'goddess' but he was so stuck for words he didn't quite finish what he was saying!

 
 

 

 

I had a lot of trouble with the straps, which is no reflection at all on the pattern or instructions, but rather on the fact that I have avoided turning straps at every single opportunity, by using ribbons instead.

This time I wanted to follow the pattern and sew spaghetti straps, so I persevered. I was using the needle and thread method but I was getting stressed and frustrated that I couldn't get the end of the strap to turn.

 

 

 

After checking the Internet I saw a reference to a drinking straw. Amazingly and simply it worked, and I was able to turn these lovely narrow straps! I wrote up a How-to for anyone else who struggles with this.

 

 

The zipper insertion looked a little complicated initially because it has to be attached to the bodice lining while also maintaining the blousiness of the back bodice. Tasia's instructions are, again, very clear on this and it turned out perfectly.

 

 

 

Sometimes I have the experience of a pattern literally 'talking' to me, hopefully I'm not the only sewist that this happens to! .......

Saltspring: "I really, really, really want to be sewn in jersey, please please, please?"

Me: "No, that's ok, I'm happy to sew you in chiffon, it's just the right drape for you."

Saltspring: "Well, Liberty jersey has a drape too, and there some lovely striped jersey on Susan's Sewbox website."

Me: "I don't really have the time to sew two versions so...."

Saltspring: "Mmm, what about using these perfectly matching ribbons for the straps and omit the zip, that will be much faster, please, please, please!!!"

 

 

Me: "wellll...."

Saltspring: "and you can cut the stripes on the bias for more drape and for fun chevrons"

Me: "ok, ok, ok"

Saltspring: "Yes, yes, yessss!!!!!"

 

 

 

 

 

So I just couldn't resist a version in jersey, and it's a medium weight jersey, so I was surprised the dress worked in this heavier fabric.


 

 

 

 

As this was the second version I sewed, I made some changes.

 

To sew the chevrons, my first attempt, I added an extra seam in the centre front bodice and the centre front skirt and cut the striped fabric on the bias, matching the stripes.

 

 

There was no need for the zip as the stretch of the fabric and the elastic at the waist allow the dress to be easily put on and taken off.

 
 
The pictures don't accurately reflect the colour of the ribbon from Jane Means. It's a bright turquoise, with a strong contrasting deep pink, and it perfectly matched the colours of the jersey, irresistible really!

 

And the real test? I love how these dresses turned out and they have been worn, a few times. The jersey dress has been perfect for the beach in our recent heatwave, and I wore the red chiffon dress going out for dinner on holidays........

 

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16 comments:

  1. oh wow! that red dress is AMAZING! It's absolutely beautiful on you - well done!

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    1. Hello Jo, thank you :-) I have to say I feel great wearing it too!

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  2. A lovely look on you and you did a great job telling me about the pattern. Now I want to get it! Great dresses!!

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    1. Thanks Kathy, I'm not sure why I was surprised that I like it so much. Well worth getting the pattern!

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  3. Greek Goddess is right: it's ever so classy and beautiful.

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    1. Mise! So, so great to hear from you, I hope you're doing ok :-)
      Thank you, I was glad I got out of my comfort zone in sewing it.

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  4. Gorgeous lady in Red! The dresses are both lovely on you, Angela. So nice to see how a change in fabric makes the dresses look completely different. You're definitely a Greek Goddess in the red dress!

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    1. Thanks Cindy, it's true, the change in fabric almost makes it look like it's from another pattern! I've had the red fabric for ages, so I'm delighted with my red dress!!

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  5. Fantastic dress, what fun to have that flirty red chiffon version. it looks effortlessly chic, yes a goddes look. I might have to try this pattern :)

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    1. Thank you Beth :-) It's really worth a try. It wasn't a look I thought I would like, but I was so pleasantly surprised!

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  6. I love Maxi dresses. Somehow, a woman in a long dress looks so cool and elegant in the summer heat. And I love the shorter version on you - it is really a flattering pattern. And there is tons of potential for adding trim or other details.

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    1. Thank you :-) I own one other maxi dress, which I haven't worn in years, but I completely agree, they are perfect for hot weather. It's a great pattern, I'm looking forward to seeing your version, and all the others from the sew-a-long!

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  7. You look INCREDIBLE in red! I really love that you took luxe fabrics and used them with this casual pattern. The combination works tremendously!

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    1. Thank you Michelle :-) Even I was amazed how such a simple dress could look so 'dressed up' when sewn in chiffon, I had imagined it would still look casual!

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  8. I have so many questions that I am going to email you separately if that's OK!
    I have the saltspring pattern and some very sheer white chiffon with a delicate blue print. It will look perfect... I am just trying to figure out how to make the bodice work... and the zip. ARGH!!! I'm scared!

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    1. Hello Lizzy, your chiffon print sounds divine! I emailed back and tried to answer your questions. The dress will work without a zip, even in chiffon and also have a look at the Saltspring Sewalong on the Sewaholic blog! (Almost a tongue twister!!)

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